Expedition cruises offer a unique opportunity to explore some of the most remote regions of the world, allowing you to immerse yourself in unique cultures whilst encountering wildlife up close. Expedition sailings provide you with the perfect cure for your wanderlust and to gain once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
I was lucky enough to embark on a 12-day expedition to the Arctic with AE Expeditions aboard the purpose-built expedition ship, Greg Mortimer. Discover the Arctic with me in my journal.
Day 1.
After a connecting flight from Manchester to Tromso via Oslo, I completed the first leg of my journey.
I was impressed by the space on-board the SAS flight with a 32-inch pitch and I was comfortable during the two short flights I had to take.
All covid restrictions had been lifted for these destinations making the paperwork very straightforward, I just needed to show my passport and boarding pass.
Packing tip
To make things easier with packing, I made sure I didn’t need to go into my main suitcase before boarding the ship.
With SAS you get an 8kg overhead bag plus a small bag that must fit under the seat in front of you.
I opted to put my camera, laptop and binoculars in my small bag along with my travel document, passport, paperwork etc.
In my large cabin bag, I packed my overnight items for the night I’d spend in Tromso and Longybearn. I also packed my waterproof trousers just in case we had to board by Zodiac on the day of embarkation – a top tip from AE Expedition themselves.
Getting from the airport to the pre-cruise hotel
I stayed at the Raddison Blu, just a ten-minute taxi drive from the airport cost 235NOK – equivalent to £18. Taxis are plentiful as soon as you come out of arrivals at Tromso Airport. However, if you get there and find there isn’t one waiting Uber is also available.
Food and drinks local to the hotel
Next door to the Raddison Blu, there is a traditional pub ‘Rorbua’ with a full-size taxidermy adult polar bear which is impressive. They serve an array of local beers and spirits with bar snacks, I opted for a gin and tonic.
Next door to the pub I noticed ‘Yonas Pizzarea’ the locals were gathering inside and it was very busy so I thought I would pop along to see what it was like, thinking if the locals go it must be good and it was!
Radisson Blu
This four-star hotel is a stone’s throw away from the water with picturesque views of the snow-topped mountains, it was perfect for a pre-cruise hotel stay.
Day 2.
An early start to get the final flight to Longyearbyen before boarding the Greg Mortimer tomorrow afternoon.
Tromso Airport
It is important to note that at Tromso Airport you only need to arrive two hours before your flight.
You need to make sure you have checked in online and that you have your boarding pass either printed or on your phone. The reason for this is that your main check-in luggage (23kg case) needs to be dropped off at the self-service bag drop. Doing this in advance makes the airport experience much easier.
Step-by-step check-in:
- Check-in using the self-service machine
- When scanning your boarding pass your luggage label will print.
- Attach luggage label
- Place it on the bag drop conveyer belt scan the label and the machine weighs your bag and takes it.
All flights to Longyearbyen depart from Terminal C. Once you have dropped your luggage off at the bag drop, you have to wait outside for the bus. You can only get the bus two hours before your flight but take note that there are no coffee shops/refreshment machines/vending machines to grab a drink if you do arrive too early.
At Terminal C there is a small coffee shop and a small duty-free shop.
Longyearbyen
Once in Longyearbyen, we were transported by AE Expeditions transfer, the representative was waiting outside of the airport with a sign and the coach was positioned right outside of arrivals.
It was a short journey to the Raddison Blu Polar Hotel (six minutes), with amazing snow-topped mountains and brightly-coloured buildings.
We were greeted at the hotel by two AE representatives who assisted us with check-in, along with any last-minute questions we had prior to embarkation. It was here we had to fill in our health and safety questionnaire and collect our luggage labels ready for boarding tomorrow afternoon via Zodiac.
The rooms at the hotel are spacious and comfortable, with a separate seating area and coffee table, plenty of space for luggage and a lovely view of the snow-topped mountains.
Afternoon/Evening
I enjoyed a lovely walk around Longyearbyen taking in the local sites and having a look in the local shops. There is plenty of opportunity to gather last-minute essentials prior to boarding.
The hotel has a bar area that offers a selection of bar meals including pizzas and salads. They also have a separate restaurant where you can dine.
Day 3.
This morning we have a leisurely breakfast before checking out of the hotel, the restaurant is bright and airy will full floor-to-ceiling windows so you can take in the view of Longyearbyen.
After checkout (11 am) we then had the morning to ourselves before meeting up with the AE Expeditions ground team in Longyearbyen for the afternoon activities.
Things to do in Longyearbean
There is a beautiful church which is set back on the hillside as you look up from the town centre, it’s about a 30-minute steady walk from the hotel.
The Café Huskies is very popular, here you can have a slice of cake with freshly brewed coffee/ hot chocolate whilst being surrounded by furry friends.
Afternoon Activities
We were asked to meet our guides at 1 pm back at the hotel to then start our afternoon excursions.
The first stop was the Svalbard Museum, on arrival, our guide gave us a ten-minute talk in front of the Svalbard map advising about the history of the Longyearbyen population. After this, we were given 30 minutes to look around the museum to view the incredible examples of taxidermy. It was interesting to read about the politics and the fight that they have had with the coal mine located in Longyearbyen which was due to close this year (2023). However, due to the war, they have been given an extension to allow the mine to stay open until 2025.
Next, we moved on to Camp Barentz, it’s here where we were introduced to working huskies and given the opportunity to give them a fuss and to get some photos. They explained about the different sledges they have to use depending on the conditions throughout the year and how they are cared for.
Our guide then took us into one of the huts where we were served lunch (chicken beetroot wraps / vegetarian wraps) with freshly brewed coffee on an open fire. He provided us with an overview of the history of the Longyearbyen community and introduced us to some local knowledge about the amazing wildlife we are all hoping to see.
We then went on to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, we were informed by our guide about the 4,000 plant species that are stored here. It is just a short stop and more just so that you can see where the vault is, as it’s protected due to the sensitivity of the work you’re unable to go in. It’s situated up on the hillside so you get a fabulous view over Longyearbyen plus our first view of the ship!
The Ship Embarkation
We arrived after our afternoon activities at 4:30 pm, our photographs were taken outside and then we were asked to congregate in the Elephant bar where we were served a fruit punch. We were then asked to check in at reception and collect our room keys.
Evening
We were asked to meet in the Lecture Theatre at 6 pm, which meant a very quick shower and a change of clothes before heading over for a Welcome Speech by the Lead of the Expedition Team Christophe, we were introduced by the team and they advised us of their expertise. We were also informed of the plan for the following day before heading over for dinner at 7:30 pm.
Day 4.
After breakfast we had about an hour of free time, I took the opportunity to walk on the top deck and enjoy the scenery.
At 8 am we were asked to join the Expedition leader and team in the lecture lounge, this was mandatory for all guests.
During the lecture we were given a Polar Bear Safety briefing, they advised us in detail on what we would do as a collective group if we were out on the Zodiacs/on land should we encounter one of these amazing creatures.
They then moved on to explain the Bio Security they do to protect the environment we venture on. We were then asked to bring about outdoor clothing, shoes, bags, waking poles, cameras and binocular equipment. You were given a dedicated Expedition Team member to go to and they would check over the equipment and advise you what needed to be cleaned. They gave us the use of metal brushes, and hovers and for those with walking sticks, we were advised to make sure that we use the virkon to clean them.
After the biosecurity and polar safety bear briefing, we were taken down to the mud room to try on our muck boots to ensure they were an accurate fit.
The Mudroom
This is a brilliant area for you to store your outdoor clothing and equipment you need, i.e. walking poles, waterproof trousers, diving wet suits etc.
Svalbard Lecture
An introduction to Svalbard – Alber conducted a recalling interesting lecture advising us about the following:
*Introduction to the Arctic
*Weather & Temperatures
*Arctic manuals: polar bear/ walruses/ seals/ *land animals reindeer /arctic fox/ birds
*History of human life.
Lunch
Every lunch service is buffet style, with a salad bar, soup of the day with freshly prepared bread which is made on board, cheese, meats and cracker buffet section, and then a dish of the day i.e. nachos/ pasta/ burgers. Then there is a fish/chicken dish followed by a section of vegetables/ rice and potatoes.
The Afternoon Activity
We enjoyed a Zodiac cruise at Yoldiabukta Bay What an unbelievable time we had with pointed mountain backdrops and tidewater glaciers.
We were in awe of the amazing walrus we were able to see as they really are huge! It was incredible how close we were able to get to these amazing animals.
Evening
Once back on board, we all had 30 mins or so to grab a quick shower before enjoying the Captain’s welcome drinks and canapés before dinner.
Day 5.
Feeling incredibly excited to be doing our first Zodiac landing, the weather was calm with water that looked like glass at Gnalodden in Hornsund. At a perfect first outing, guests that hadn’t been on Zodiacs before were a little nervous but underneath the excitement pushed them through. Smiles were all around as we made our way to shore.
We were taken to a beautiful landing spot where we were able to see many of the artic birds – kittiwakes, Brünnich’s guillemot and northern fulmars. It was stunning! We were even lucky enough to see some puffins!
We were also able to visit Wanny Wolstad’s satellite cabin which she used during the 1930s. She was a taxi driver in Tromso, a mother of two and the first woman trapper in Svalbard. Her fellow hunter was Andres Saeterdal, whom she formed a romantic relationship with. She was a remarkable woman and was known for her excellent hunting skills. She was featured in newspapers due to her achievements but unfortunately died at the age of 66.
Book recommendation: The first woman trapper in Svalbard – Wanny Woldstad
After our Zodiac landing, we enjoyed lunch taking in the scenery before venturing out again at Burgerbuka on another Zodiac cruise.
We were able to view some incredible rock forms and we were amazed by the beauty of the glaciers.
Day 6.
The Expedition Leader Christophe had decided that today would be our first sea day so that we could venture through the ice field waters of Kapp-Lee.
It was incredible and truly breathtaking, Greg Mortimer guided us through the ice with ease. The hope was to go further into the fjord, however, the Captain was becoming concerned about the thickness of the ice so we turned around to head back out.
Each passenger on the ship was on tenterhooks as we saw vast amounts of bear footprints across the ice sheets. Knowing that we were sailing the waters to which they roam, with such clear footprints of these magnificent animals was a real goosebump moment and there was excitement in the air. Sadly though it wasn’t the day for us and we left only knowing that we had been close to them.
After making our way out of the ice-compacted waters the expedition team found a great area where we were able to do a Zodiac cruise. I was impressed by how close we were able to get to walruses on the ice sheets, snuggled together and having an afternoon snooze.
Prior to our evening meal, we enjoyed a lecture about the walrus, advising us of their calling sounds, eating habits and the surroundings that they love.
Day 7.
Our day began as we sailed towards Freemansundert, it was something I’ll never forget. The Captain and his crew navigated through densely packed sea ice and everyone on board was mesmerised by the view.
Most were on deck in search of the sightings of bear footprints and there was plenty to see, unfortunately, we were unable to see any however just knowing we had been where they roamed was a privilege.
As we got deeper into the sound the decision was made to turn around as the ice was getting too densely packed. We were fortunate to go as far as we did, and it was a breathtaking morning.
After lunch, the captain headed over to a landing site near Doerteritenest. We enjoyed a fabulous walk guided by the Expedition team and saw some fabulous reindeer.
The Svalbard Reindeer are much smaller than what you would imagine. The legs are much shorter and their coats are a beautiful white. I was amazed at how close we got to them without them being startled.
Once back on-board, we had a lovely evening meal followed by a Svalbard Frozen Planet documentary with popcorn in the entire theatre.
Day 8.
What a start! Being advised that there was a pod of humpback whales on the port side of the ship, brought an overwhelming excitement on board -as we all made our way up to the top deck.
They were spectacular! The ship was able to virtually anchor right beside them so we could watch these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. The guests on board looked on, mesmerised by their beauty, we were lucky enough to see such a magnificent pod.
After breakfast, there were two lectures in the lecture theatre a photography lecture and a lecture on the life of a snowflake.
We were then able to see two staterooms onboard that were unoccupied: the Captain’s Suite and the Junior Suite.
After lunch we all enjoyed a Zodiac landing in Recherchefjord, I opted for the long walk and thoroughly enjoyed it. We were able to see some of the flowers that we had been advised about the day before in the lecture. The terrain was very spongy underfoot but still quite rocky. We saw several varieties of birds such as king Eiders, guillemots, purple sandpipers and kittiwakes.
I had brought my own walking poles, however, the ship has ample you can borrow should you not have any.
COVID
Today we were informed that there was a passenger onboard who tested positive and another passenger who was in close proximity that had been placed in isolation.
They were incredibly professional about advising us of the situation and we were all informed at the end of the lecture calmly by the doctor. They offered us rapid tests should any of us have any symptoms.
Day 9.
After breakfast, guests were given the option to join one of the following Zodiacs to explore Bjornfjord:
Citizen Science Zodiac, Photography Zodiac, Zen Zodiac, Regular Zodiac.
Customers who decide to stay on board always must go to the Expedition desk.
I decided to go on a regular Zodiac and take in the amazing views and landscapes. It was fabulous the glaciers were amazing, and we saw a small calving. The vast amounts of ice were incredible – we were able to see a bearded seal upon some sheet ice.
Lunch was warming with some lovely soup and honey glazed gammon with plenty of veg and potatoes.
We then set off to our next destination, which gave us plenty of time to relax looking out in the observation lounge with our binoculars for bear footprints!
At 4 pm the announcement was made….the POLAR PLUNGE! Guests debated about whether should they or shouldn’t.
Once down in the mudroom the excitement and determination began to get this done and ticked off as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to brave the icy cold waters of the artic! I’m proud to say that at 80 degrees north I did my polar plunge!
Once we had all warmed up with a drink in hand it was time to enjoy the BBQ on deck 8 with everyone to finish off such a lovely day.
Some guests opted to take on another challenge and sleep under the midnight sun, however, only four were remaining the following morning as the others sneaked back into a nice warm bed!
Day 10
Waking up with the ship stationary and surrounded by ice was so peaceful and tranquil. Everyone was on polar bear watch and eager to find this magnificent animal.
We were all incredibly excited when we were informed that they were going to allow us to walk on the ocean. It was something I don’t think I’ll ever be able to explain as the feeling when you step on the ice sheet was overwhelming. The land where the polar bears roam was right under my feet, being able to walk where they call home.
After lunch, it was binoculars at the ready on all decks in search of polar bears, Maxim and his crew pushed on through the packed ice. It was amazing to watch, I was amazed by how smooth the ship was.
We then went to the Polar Bear lecture to learn about these magnificent animals, on average they eat about 43 reindeer a year.
Colby who led the lecture has written The Professional Guide’s Handbook: How to Lead Adventure Travel Trips and Expeditions.
We then broke out for a delicious afternoon tea eagerly for polar bears on the sheet ice.
Following afternoon tea, we enjoyed a polar dog and dogsledding lecture. It was great to understand more about the culture and history of the Greenlandic dogs. They live about 14 years and weigh about 66 -70 lbs, they eat a lot of protein and fat in their diet.
Packing list advice:
USB – add to packing list to take photographers’ photos from library computer for own use.
Day 11
The morning started very relaxed with a lovely breakfast as we cruised around the fjords in search of the elusive polar bear!
Much to our surprise we saw a pod of about 40-50 Beluga whales, it was unbelievable, the whales were too far to photograph to get a clear image of these beautiful animals, but the sight was magnificent.
After lunch, we were able to go out on the Zodiac to view the amazing glaciers and reindeer grazing on the ridges around the fjord. What surprised me was the water as it was crystal clear, as it got deeper the water became a beautiful turquoise colour.
We then enjoyed a lecture about the women of Svalbard. The first researcher in Svalbard was Hanna Resvoll-Homsen, The first woman hunter in Svalbard was Wanny Woldstad.
During the lecture, we enjoyed Crepe Suzette.
After the lecture, canapés were flowing, and guests were able to enjoy the view with a crisp glass of wine as we cruises through the fjord still in search of polar bears.
We then had our daily recap, and they gave us some further information about Beluga whales.
After dinner we then went to have the open if night…but then ‘Ding Ding PB Starboard Side!’ – there was a buzz in the air, running to any viewing platform and grabbing the binoculars and cameras for our first glimpse of the one thing we had all been searching for… the polar bear!
It was a mesmerising moment seeing how gracefully this beautiful animal walked along the shore one through the water and onto the sheet ice whilst it stalked the seals it had hoped to catch.
We were all in awe of its beauty and watched this magnificent polar bear until the early hours of the morning.
Day 12
Waking up after such an unbelievable sighting of the polar bear the night before, we were all keen to see if it was still on the ice. The expedition team advised us that the bear had swum out and then disappeared behind the hillside venturing out of our view.
The atmosphere on board was fabulous, everyone exchanged photos and talked to each other about such a fabulous experience.
After breakfast, we enjoyed a beautiful Zodiac cruise around the fjord where the polar bear had spent time the day before. There was a sense of excitement that the footprints we were seeing on land, were those of the bear we had so patiently watched until 2:30 am in the morning, it was really moving.
Just before lunch, we congregated in the lecture theatre to talk about the polar bear and see some pictures of this magnificent animal which Michael the Expedition Team’s photographer had taken.
We were then lucky enough to visit Pyramiden, based in Spitsbergen, this ghost town is now only inhabited by 12 conservationists who care for the area. It’s an abandoned Soviet coal mining settlement, the coal industry tree ended in 1998 just a few years after a tragic plane crash that killed 141 people.
After we were all back from the tour, it was a quick shower and change and up to the Elephant bar, for the Captain’s farewell canapés and drinks reception.
Thank yous all around as we said our final goodbyes to the Expedition Team and fellow crew members on board.
We enjoyed a lovely evening meal, I opted for surf and turf and chocolate indulgence, it was delicious.
To round off the evening we had a beautiful presentation of the customers and the expedition team’s photographs. It was fabulous recapping such a memorable trip- a perfect ending to an amazing trip.
See all AE Expedition cruise itineraries
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